Dining Room Update | Chippendale Chairs + Renter Friendly Accent Wall

Today, I'm sharing two updates for our dining room - our finished Chinese Chippendale Chairs and a renter friendly accent wall! I'm making the finishing touches to our TN rental, so a full tour will be in the next few weeks!




It's been warm the past few days, but super rainy and overcast. I really miss the CA sun - it's been about a year and a half since we left CA and I'm going into withdrawal. Yesterday, I finished the final box cover for the Chippendale chairs, and the sun came out just in time at the end of the day to take some photos.


My original plan was to share the rehab of these Chinese Chippendale chairs in real time progress (you can see my updates here, here and here) and I have, but it's been several months.. (normally it doesn't take that long :) Why did it take so long? Because I couldn't decide on the fabric.. I think my indecision came from not knowing exactly where they are going (we're moving soon!) so I wanted something that could fit in most places. I ended up going with Robert Allen Alchemy linen zinc (color way currently out of stock). It's a heavy linen with a metallic coating on top - almost giving it the feel of laminated fabric, but not in a bad way - it's very pretty. It seems like it will hold up well!

The chairs required A LOT of work (you can see all the before pics here) It would have been nice to leave them wood (they are heavy and solid) but there was too much damage and those backs needed to come off to show the gorgeous fretwork. The staple holes needed to be filled in with wood filler - so paint was a must. I do LOVE them in white though, so bright and fresh!


I tackled the box covers myself (my Mom helped me with a set a while ago, more here). I was a little concerned with the curves, but luckily it worked out in the end. Whew! They have a few flaws, but overall they turned out well!

Up next, a renter friendly (inexpensive) accent wall.


We built a simple frame out of 1x2s that was painted white (make sure they are fairly straight - since they are cheap, they are notorious for being warped). For the background, we used a large loose painting canvas that we had around the house and painted it with SW Urbane Bronze. Note: loose canvas must be kept tight while priming to avoid wrinkles (and it will shrink some). Normally, I like to prime on a designated piece of drywall - so I can adjust the pins and keep it tight. But, the paint bleeds through the canvas, so we temporarily attached it to the back of the frame and painted there, it was kinda a mess since I had to put a tarp underneath and push hard to get the paint even ... definitely not set up for painting here, but it worked! Then, once it dried, we removed it, flipped it so it was the right way and then stapled in place.


A few months ago, we found a knock off Arco floor lamp on Craigslist for $40. It's been sitting in our dining room ever since (it's heavy!) I'm thinking about moving it to our TN living room, but it will most likely end up in our MD living room when we move.


I moved our console table from the living room here, I'm not sure if it will stay, but I love the pop of color from the lamps and ottomans contrasted by the dark canvas. We're building a new console table this weekend, so it will go here or behind the sofa.

That's it for today, I'll be back tomorrow for Friday Five!

Chinese Chippendale Chairs | Real Time Progress - Fabric Selection

Hey! Today, I'm sharing another real time update for our Chinese Chippendale Chairs (see here and here to see our progress) Currently, I'm finalizing the fabric selection.. why my delay? I don't have a specific room in mind, so I want to make sure they are very versatile! It's hard to make a decision when I'm not looking at the other fabrics in the space!




Option 1. Charcoal velvet - I purchased this for another project, but I'm considering using it here .. I was originally thinking something lighter, but this is still definitely a possibility. 

Option 2 - Warsa Linen from Gray Lines Linen. I ordered a swatch card last week. I'm considering Oatmeal. (My other favorite swatches from the card are: Celander, Lime, New Turquoise, Jade, Fuchsia, and D. Grey) 


Option 3 - Metallic Linen from Gray Lines Linen. So many options, but ML 55, ML 56, ML 65, MM 40 caught my eye. 

So, have you used any of these? Do you have a favorite from here or elsewhere? I'll be deciding today!

Chinese Chippendale Chairs | Real Time Progress Round 2

You may have noticed that my DIY project posts have been a little less frequent recently .. that's partially because we're working on too many at one time (we're currently working on finishing our MD living room) Also, some projects aren't exactly going as planned .. in TN we have the Chinese Chippendale chairs and a campaign desk in process. Both have had some hiccups .. the desk should require some sanding and one more top coat (I bought the wrong kind of paint the first time, so I'm hoping this will be it!) and  I'll talk about the Chippendale chairs below .. It's been a few frustrating weeks, working and working with not a lot of finished results to show, but hopefully I'll have tons to show you soon!! Thanks for sticking with me :) 

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Today, I'm sharing our progress over the week for the Chinese Chippendale chairs .. (See this post for where we started)





As I mentioned last week, some of the wood was broken and repaired (but not well). David carefully removed the wood glue and drilled out the broken dowel rod with the dremel tool. 


And inserted a new dowel rod with some wood glue.


Finally, he clamped it in place with a ratchet strap - perfect for hard to reach spaces! We use these all the time when we're hauling our furniture finds. If you're using rope, I highly recommend picking up a set, it's about $13 for a pack of 4 and worth every penny!!

We did some sanding before fixing the top .. but this week sanding has happened before, in between and after .. so I'll mention it here! :)

If you re finish furniture, sanding is probably your least favorite part .. sanding a flat surface is bearable, but sanding a curved surface that's hard to reach (those arms are gorgeous, but they make sanding the back around them very tricky!) makes it pretty frustrating, it requires patience and lots of breaks.


We found a few sanding tools to be helpful .. a foam sanding block (I recommend 3M, it lasts longer), thin sanding pads with a foam back (these were found at Sherwin Williams) and wood files, triangle and flat (these are designed to work with a handle, but we just used them without ..)

The foam sanding block works well for areas that are easier to reach, the foam is more forgiving for round surfaces, to help prevent over sanding.

The thin sanding pads with a foam back are good for hard to reach spots.

The wood files were something new that we used and they were great!! They stay sharp (my number one compliant with sandpaper) and easily remove the finish. The triangle file worked perfectly for cutting out the faux bamboo notches.


I forgot to take a close up, but the other road block this week was the finish .. it must have been sprayed on, and some areas it was pretty thick and chipping off. For the paint to look even, the uneven finish has to be removed .. there are so many facets to this chair, every time you look, you find more .. the flat file took the finish off SUPER quick .. there was just a lot to take off.


Once it was sanded, we wiped it off with a microfiber cloth to remove all the dust.


We spray primed it with Zinsser Cover Stain, using light, thin coats.


Once primed, we saw a few areas that needed some more work, so we applied more wood filler and sanded some more .. At this point, I was pretty frustrated, so it definitely helped that David was willing to help, so we both had a chair to work on!

One more coat of primer and then it should be ready for the top coat!

Time spent this week: (approximations since I broke it up a lot)

Repairing top section: 1 hour
Wood Filler: 2 hours
Sanding: 2 or 3 afternoons??
Priming: 30 minutes

Most of my projects don't require this much repair and sanding, but since all the surfaces are round, the finish was uneven, and the faux bamboo had to be built up. It's taking a lot longer than usual!! But the important thing is that the hardest parts are over!

I'm planning on a white frame and I'm still deciding on fabric, maybe something like this, this, this, thisthis or this


I'm not sure where the chairs will go .. so I'm deciding between neutrals and my go to colors .. If you have an opinion (from here or somewhere else), I'd love to hear it! I'll be ordering fabric sometime this week.

Chinese Chippendale Chairs | Real Time Progress

Today I thought I would try something a little different. Rather than posting one big reveal - I'll be sharing my progress in real time. I think some projects come across as quick and easy (the nature of one post ..) but in reality, that's not always the case.

So I'll be sharing this project in real time - from finding a second hand piece to finished photos.


Last Sunday, I was browsing Knoxville Craigslist (while in Maryland) doing one of my typically searches, bamboo .. and there it was, a pair of Chinese Chippendale arm chairs ($60 for the pair) (in Asheville, NC).. I've been looking for these for about 3 years .. it was a mixture of feelings, super excited, but not wanting to get my hopes up .. We were driving back to back to TN that day, so we couldn't make it. I sent an email, saying how much I loved them, how long I've been looking for them, etc.. and asked if they would hold them till weekend. After a day or so, they said that they would hold them, YAY!!


So this Friday, we decided to take a day trip to Asheville (about 2 hours away) and visit vintage/thrift shops and the Biltmore. You can't tell from the photo, but it was a gorgeous day, the weather was perfect and the sky was a mix of the prettiest blue and clouds (except in this photo ..) I needed a day to recharge, picking up one of my bucket list furniture finds and soaking up the architecture and interior details, did just the trick!


Saturday, I started taking them apart. As you can see, the upholstery needs to be replaced.


Some of the wood joints were broken and repaired (but not well ..)


Saturday, I spent a good portion of the day removing all of the upholstery and staples from the back and seat. My preference is a small pair of needle nose pliers (I like the ones below, comes in a pack of three at Home Depot) these are great since they pop back open when you release. I also like a flat screw driver with a thin tip, it allows you to get underneath the staple easier. Though it is good to have a larger set too because it's easier on your hands (mine are still sore today ..) Pulling staples is definitely my least favorite task .. if anyone has tips to make it easier, I'd love to hear!


The seats are secured underneath with screws ..


The upholstered backs left staple holes everywhere .. the faux bamboo was also notched out ..


Sunday, I filled the staple holes and notched out bamboo with wood filler. Since the notched out bamboo requires more wood filler, I will let it sit overnight - prior to sanding.


We repaired the damage arm by stripping the old glue and nail, then re-aligned the wood, added wood glue and clamped into place with a ratchet strap (a great tip, if clamps wont work!). Clamping is the key to strong, durable bond when using wood glue. Once dry, we used wood filler to fill in the missing wood.


Purchasing these with an upholstered back (when I want the exposed back) will add a few extra days of work, but I figured I've waited 3 years, a few extra days of work will be well worth it!

That's where I'm at! Due to the damage, I'm planning on reupholstering the seat, leaving the back as is and painting the frame.

Total time invested:

Picking up chairs: 4 hours (we did make a day trip out of it .. and usually our finds are only about 10-30 minutes away ..)

Removing staples and upholstery: an afternoon

Repairing damaged wood with wood glue and wood filler: about 2 hours

Up next, sanding, priming the frame and picking out fabric for the seat.

We have lots of projects in the works .. so stay tuned!!

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Also, don't forget to check out my latest DIY project, at Infarrantly Creative!!

aluminum LARGE marquee letter

Today I'm sharing our final project from Creating with the Stars, if you missed the tutorial on East Coast Creative, read on!

Recently, we moved to a Tennessee on a short term assignment (for David's job). Even though we're only here short term, I still wanted to make it our own. For my office, I added an accent chair and a large marquee letter.

Here's the start of my new office! 

DIY marquee letters are nothing new (just to name a few .. here, here, here) but it's one of those things that I HAD to try. I just couldn't get it out of my head!





Here's our version!

Materials needed // 2'x4' - 1/2" Plywood/MDF (we used 1/4" but the screw placement had to be exact, which made it difficult. // 6" aluminum flashing // clear globe string lights // spray paint // small screws // fast drying glue // caulk

Tools needed // jigsaw with fine wood cut blade // drill with 3/4" bit // painters tape // sandpaper // tools to bend flashing (wood block, metal spackle took)

1. Print letter on 8.5x11 and project it on 2'x4' MDF or Plywood, trace with pencil (I have this projector. If you don't have a projector, free hand, if you're comfortable or get it printed large at a local printer)

2. Cut letter with jigsaw. Try to be exact as possible, this will help later when applying the flashing.

3. Lightly sand edges


4. Measure bulb placement - find the center and then space them equally. Ours were 4"apart.

5. With 3/4" bit, drill holes for lights.

6. Push the lights from the back and secure lights from the front with a strong, quick grab glue. Apply caulk from behind to stabilize and seal the sockets.

7. Since our MDF was fairly thin, we added a few wood blocks to help stabilize it. This also lifted it off the ground so that the flashing was centered on the sign.


8. Get ready for paint. Fill in socket holes with tape.

9. Spray paint the front of your letter.



10. Apply your flashing. For the corners, we bent the flashing using blocks of wood, a metal spackle tool and clamps.

Note: the flashing is very sharp, so we recommend that you wear safety gloves. We opted out since it was hard to handle with gloves on. We did cut ourselves ..

11. Mark where the flashing hits the MDF and drill a hole for the screw through the flashing (also pre-drill your hole in the MDF) Secure the flashing with small screws.

12. Fill in the gaps with a quick drying caulk. First apply painters tape to the flashing for easy clean up.


13. Drill a hole in the bottom for your cord. Apply a rubber gasket or caulk to protect the wire from the sharp edge.

14. Install hanging hardware. We installed a 1x3 board at the top with a notch for the screws to sit in.

15. Wire your light!


Plug in and enjoy!



Next, we added additional seating with a rattan chair. We lightly sanded, wiped it down with a microfiber cloth, primed and painted a light mint, Valspar mellow spring (it took two cans).


The chair came with a removable plywood seat that we upholstered in this fabric.


We recently made a table lamp base out of marble baseboard tiles, check out the tutorial on Houzz here


Love this test-tube-like bud vase, found at a local vintage shop!


Practically my entire office has been DIYed, here's a few of the other projects! commercial to custom credenza with overlays // black and white striped upholstered chair // x-leg desk // gold geometric lamps // marble lamp base out of baseboard tile

I love how my office is coming together! Having an organized place that feels like me is a great constant as we've been moving!

Stop back tomorrow to see my damage free - renter friendly draperies!

Rattan Chair Makeover

Hi! I hope that you had a great weekend! It was hot here! We went almost directly from frigid winter in Ohio to unseasonably warm temps in Tennessee. But it was gorgeous, not complaining at all .. well maybe a little, I was attacked by several bees, so we'll have to figure that out .. as I was sanding and painting outside, I also had the fly swatter added to my tool arsenal!

If you follow me on instagram, you might have seen this rattan chair that I found on Friday! I love the shape, and the fact that it didn't need any major repairs / reconfiguring. Finding something that just needs a little sanding, painting, and simple upholstery is SO much easier than repairing and switching things around. Too often, I buy things that need a lot of work.

This was easily done in a day while we were working on other projects, so not bad at all!




I didn't prepare a full tutorial but here's a quick run down. 

1. Lightly sand chair with 120 sandpaper

2. Wipe off dust with microfiber cloth

3. Prime. My paint had primer built in, but I opted to add an additional coat for extra coverage and protection once dry. Apply in thin coats

4. Paint. Once the primer is dry, apply in thin coats letting it dry in between. I used 2 cans of spray paint. (Valspar - Mellow Spring)

5. Upholster the seat (here's a similar tutorial) Mine came with a piece of loose plywood, which made upholstering so easy!


BTW, did you know that it's the final week of Creating with the Stars!? Voting is open through Tuesday! Stop by and pick you favorite. I'll be there tomorrow, sharing our home decor project, make sure to stop by!

Ikat Chevron Office Chair ReUpholstery

When I first saw this chair in Habitat Restore, I immediately thought of Emily Henderson's chair makeover for Oh Joy's Studio - the shape is almost identical!

I didn't need another office chair at the time, so I passed. BUT when I got home I couldn't stop thinking about it, so I went back later that day - luckily it was still there! (plus I found an amazing pendant that was hiding!)

It was $20 or $25, so a great deal!! The fabric was faded and stained, so needed to be replaced (plus I HAD to try Emily's solid and pattern fabric combination).


I found the amazing fabric at G Street fabric in Rockville, MD (funny side note, it is located underneath a gym (we were there the day after Christmas - so you know it was busy!) It was SO loud from people dropping weights, etc., I afraid the ceiling was going to cave in) But so worth it because I found this ikat chevron and grayish turquoise chenille in the remnant section. (Sorry, no markings or tags on the fabric - if anyone knows, let me know!)


I won't be giving a full tutorial, but hopefully the photos will give you good idea of our process in case you'd like to try it!

First, I tore out about 1,000 staples, there were layers and layers. The staples connecting the back to the seat were about 2" long, so David clipped them and then used a hammer to loosen and then pull them. I took out all of the seams and cut along the stitch line (since the fabric wasn't even outside of the stitch line), then I laid the fabric on kraft paper.


I traced the fabric and then added .5" for my seam allowance, drawing a second line and then cut it out. I enlisted the help of my Mom since she's a whiz with the sewing machine. For the back, Mom doubled the fabric and folded the template in half to make sure it was even on both sides, pinned and then cut. Finally, Mom sewed the pieces back together, exactly how they were.

(Sorry for the photo quality, the battery in my good camera died)

As you can see, there was too much fabric to make up by just pulling. The original back never got flat (see photo above) so I'm thinking that it was really stretched. I couldn't get the fabric to lay flat, so ..


I folded it where it naturally fell and marked it with tape I removed it from the back, laid it flat and then cut down the center (of where it naturally folded) (stopping about .5" from the top seam).

I stapled on one side, and then folded the other side over and stapled at the bottom. I put a little permanent fabric glue in the seam to prevent it from gapping. Also, you can see here that we kept the original foam, it slide over the back like a glove, so it would have been hard to replace.


Once I finished the back, it was time to reattached the seat to the back. I opted for 2" screws instead of 2" staples (it's stronger, plus I don't have have a stapler for that). 

I carefully adjusted the seat so it was even with the back and pre-drilled holes (slowly so it wouldn't catch the fabric. note: some fabrics may need to be pre cut first) and then I used 2" screws (about 6)  


Finally, I pulled the back tight and stapled underneath. Since it is one continuous piece of fabric going around a curve, it helped to staple a few inches away from the edge and gather the fabric towards the back - this prevents folds at the visible edge. Staple a few inches apart and then go back and pull tight between the staples.


I reattached the base (after a good scrubbing) and that was it! 


Isn't it dreamy? I LOVE that fabric!!


The back is a drapery weight - which works well since it won't get a lot of wear and the front is upholstery weight. 



I'm planning on keeping my black and white striped chair here, I like the height, plus I think it works better with the stenciled panels. This one might go in my office in the new house


One last before:


and after


I'm in love!! The only thing I'm not crazy about is the base .. it has some rust, so I'll look into removing that. I'd love an all stainless one, so maybe I could sand blast or sand this one down to the bare metal and then put a coat of clear on it? I'll have to look into that. 

This wasn't the easiest chair to reupholster, but overall it wasn't too bad! For the price, I'd definitely do it again! 

Total cost was only about $35-40, $20 or $25 for the chair and $15 for the fabric (gotta love remnants!) 
TDC Before and After
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