Mid Century Modern Table and Chairs | Before + After

I hope you had an amazing weekend!! We made TONS of progress with our TN rental to finish up our home tour, so that makes me super happy! :)

I was going to wait till I had finished room photos, but I think most of you enjoy seeing the progress. So today, I'm sharing every detail (the hiccups and frustrations too!) Mostly to show that DIY, furniture re dos, etc. aren't always as easy or quick as they appear on t.v. shows or online.





Black Friday, I was in Goodwill hunting for furniture, I came across a set of 4 MCM dining chairs, $6 each. I texted Cassie and asked if she was interested (I had no where for them and have WAY too many chairs hoarded stored in my basement). She said yes, so I made my way to the register, the cashier rang it up as $12. After my confusion, she explained that it was 50% off today! David loaded the chairs in the car and I decided that I better make another loop, just in case! Then I found this table - I was in love with the base!! When I saw them together, I sent Cassie a text and said I wanted to keep the chairs since I loved them together for our TN dining room. She graciously said it was ok :) I owe her an amazing furniture find!!

With the 50% off, we got the table and 4 chairs for $19.50!! I've been on the hunt for a tulip table for this space, so this a great substitute!

The base is very Mid Century Modern .. the top is ok (minus the laminate top) but it feels very traditional. The bottom lip is to accommodate the track for leaves (which weren't included). So we decided to remove the track for the leaves and side panels for a cleaner, more Mid Century Modern top to match the base.



(sorry for the mess in the before photo!) I forgot to take a picture of the bottom, but it had a huge track for the leaves. Since it was all attached with screws, we removed everything, so we were just left with the 1" laminate top. There was also a 1" board underneath the table - so we drew a circle and cut it out with the jigsaw.


We glued the two tops together with wood glue.


Glued the round piece to the bottom (holding the top snugly together) and screwed it in place (note: pre- drill your holes and make sure your screws are long enough to go through both pieces, but not too long that they go all the way through).


Since we joined two pieces together, we needed to make the transition as seamless as possible. First we tried wood filler (since that's what we had on hand) but quickly realized that we needed something more substantial. So, we picked up a can of Bondo, auto body filler (we got ours at Home Depot, any hardware store should carry it)

It's pretty simple, you apply it with a scraper (thinner is easiest to sand later!!) and then sanded (I think 80 grit and then 120 or 220 grit) The key with Bondo is that you want the outer edges to be a seamless transition where it ends. The Bondo should be pretty translucent on the edges, so we used finer sandpaper on the edges (320 and 400 grit)


We repeated this a few times till we ran our hands over it and it felt pretty seamless.


We wiped the dust off and primed with Kilz Adhesion bonding primer - formulated to bond to slick surfaces. For the top coat, I used Rustoleum Glossy Enamel (oil based). For a smoother finisher, lightly sand (220 grit) and remove the dust with a cloth between coats)

Here's a few things to know about oil based paint prior to using it:

- Oil based paint is a pain to clean up (so brushes will need to be cleaned with mineral spirits or thrown away)

- It is stinky - so painting outside is a must!

- It has a slow drying time - 24 hours between coats, this also allows more time for dust to get stuck in the paint, so a debris free area is best. Also, prior to using it, the paint should cure for at least a week

- It covers SO well, you will most likely only need 2 coats.

- The key to getting a smooth finish is not over brushing (natural bristle brush works best) only go over an area with a few passes and move on, leave the brush strokes, they will self level. Apply a thicker coat to horizontal surfaces and thinner coats on vertical surfaces to prevents drips. 

- It is a great way to get a super durable, glossy, lacquer like look!


Next, why this fairly simple project took forever ... One word, indecision. I originally wanted to leave the base wood (I even sanded it all the way down) You can see here that the wood is pieced together and not very pretty (it had a heavy painted stain on it to hide the mis matched wood) I decided to leave the wood natural, but then decided that it definitely didn't look right with the chairs. So then I stained it to match the chairs and it sat like this for several weeks .. it looked too matchy matchy with the light top and dark base. But, since I spent so much time sanding it, I wanted to sit on it for a little .. 



In the end, I decided to paint it a glossy white (I spray painted with a glossy enamel) 



So happy that I did! Before staining, I knew I probably wasn't going to be happy with it, but I did it anyways because I spent lots of time sanding and staining .. I normally fight indecision by doing mock -ups in photoshop.

Here's three (roughly) photoshopped versions .. 




Normally this works really well for me .. but, since the sanding took forever .. it was clouding my judgement. 

Now, what I wasn't second guessing? Removing the traditional top for a sleeker, more Mid Century Modern look. Love it! 



The chairs were fairly simple to refurbish. I gave them a good wipe down (they were SO dirty) with water and white vinegar. Then I used Restore a Finish to freshen them up. The seat was reupholstered with Nate Berkus wide mint stripe, 









We'll be changing the dining room a little bit more, but here's what it looks like now! 

This post was a little wordier than normal, but hopefully it helps explain how every project doesn't go exactly as planned.. I definitely recommend lots of planning and using mock ups BEFORE starting on a project! Still, (especially if you're a visual person like me) sometimes you need to just start and learn from your mistakes to see what works and what doesn't. Most importantly, trust your gut! 

Have a great week friends!! 

DIY Abstract Painting

Hey! I hope you had a great weekend! I had a few requests for more info on the painting that I shared last week with our DIY Parsons desk, so today, I'm sharing a general how to!





First, a little background info .. I have a BA in fine arts, though I didn't do much abstract work in school, the basic principals are the same. It's been about 7 years since I've painted regularly and I miss it! My preference is oil paint, and it really requires a separate studio due to the stinky paint and mess. Once we stop moving around every few months, I'll set one up! All photos (other than of the painting and my office were taken by David for his digital photography class in college)

Here are my tips!

You will need.

Canvas (either by the roll (you stretch/frame yourself) or pre-stretched) if your canvas is primed, make sure it doesn't feel plasticy (the paint won't stick very well) You want your painting surface to have some tooth to it. If needed, you can apply a coat of gesso.

Paint (oil or acrylic ... much like painting furniture, each have their pluses and minuses. Oil has a slow drying time, so it extends the working time on the canvas, which allows you to blend and create washes. You do have to wait longer to put paint overtop though .. it is also very stinky, so you shouldn't paint in the house, and you need turpentine to clean your brushes. Acrylic dries fast, so it doesn't blend as well on the canvas, but it doesn't smell and you can go overtop it faster.


Paint colors I use, Titanium White, Cadmium Yellow, Cadmium Red, Alizarin Crimson, Thalo Blue, Ultramarine Blue, Brunt Sienna, Brunt Umber, Mars Black (I like Grumbacher Pre-Tested oils)

(Tip: Don't just use black to darken colors, always use complementary colors first to neutralize and deepen colors. It will give a richer color)

Paint thinner (odorless turpentine for oil and water for acrylic) to thin paint and clean brush.

Paint brushes

Glass palette with white paper underneath (mixing on white gives accurate color representation)

Palette knife (to mix paint)


Cotton rag to clean brush between colors.


Disposable gloves (for oil paint)

Razor scrapper (to clean palette)


Just for fun, here's one of me painting in my college studio (2007)

I don't have step by step photos of me painting (David wasn't there and I'm notoriously a messy painter which doesn't mix with the camera..)

But here's my general process - I referred to this fabulous painting! I love the colors, movement and variance of brush strokes.

To get started, I did a light wash of the larger areas of color (in oil paint, I love how it blends) Then, following a circular pattern, I applied tighter brushstrokes (I switched to acrylic since the colors don't need to blend and I could overlap the paint faster since it dries fast) - all around the canvas, adjusting the color slightly as I went. For big color changes, I cleaned my brush with turpentine (for oil) or water (for acrylic) and a rag. Then, I switched to another color. To finish, I did a final color adjustment by covering some of the paint with white gesso (I didn't buy enough white acrylic, but that would have been preferable) and then some final brushstrokes of color. (Also, step back and look at the canvas several times while you're working - this will give you a good idea of what the whole composition looks like)


Here are a few detail shots.



I hope this inspires you to get creative and start your own painting! Don't worry about messing up .. you can always paint over it with gesso and start over! Have fun with it :)


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They are offering 50% off all their classes (today only) so now is definitely the time to check it out! They are also offering Photoshop classes (the program that I use to edit my photos). Though I haven't taken that course, I'm sure it's amazing as well!!

Click the banner below to check out the classes!!




Kirsten Krason of 6th Street Design School recently launched House of Jade and has an online shop!! Use the code, HOJBF15 at checkout for 15% off!! 

Also, check out my Etsy shop and use the code CYBER15 for 15% off! 

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p.s. Don't forget to enter last week's giveaway! 

How to Pick the Perfect Gray Paint Color

I spent a good bit of time last week staring at gray paint samples, so today, I thought I'd share how to pick out the perfect neutral to warm gray. Grays are tricky! Whatever you do - don't use the first one you find!!

So why are grays so tricky? They range from bluish cool grays, to brownish warm grays with neutral gray in between. Grays go blue very easily! For gray, I prefer a neutral to warm gray, so that's what I'll be talking about today. I also love a gray blue, but I prefer it to read more blue than gray (verse gray with blue undertones), so that's another post :)

When starting, here's what I recommend.

1. Pick out several samples (~10) or use a paint deck and look at them side by side. This allows you to easily determine the undertones 2. Look at the samples in the room that the paint will be in (at different points during the day, especially for wall colors). The light will make all of the difference! Don't skip this step!

Need a starting point? Here are my picks! (from Sherwin Williams and Benjamin Moore)



For a lighter gray, BM Gray Owl (neutral) or BM Hazy Skies (warm). These are great wall colors, also try them lightened 50% for a lighter look.

Medium to medium dark, SW Dovetail and SW Gauntlet Gray (neutral) and SW Anonymous and SW Porpoise (warm, brown undertones)

Medium to medium dark, BM Chelsea Gray, BM Amherst, BM Kendall Charcoal (neutral, but still very rich).

Medium, BM Galveston Gray, a little warm

Medium, BM Eagle Rock, warm with subtle brown undertones.

Dark, BM Dragon's Breath, rich, dark, gray with brown undertones.


For my Drexel Campaign dresser, I went with BM Eagle Rock (mixed in Sherwin Williams Pro Classic) - the perfect medium gray with very subtle brown undertones. I finished painting over the weekend, but I'm still trying to replicate the two missing handles, photos soon!

Finally, my top pick for a neutral gray (from above samples) BM Chelsea Gray and BM Kendall Charcoal - they are neutral, but still very rich!

If you're picking out gray paint soon, I hope this helps!!

Poppy Red Campaign Desk

Today I'm sharing our new campaign desk! A few months ago, I found several Bernhardt Campaign pieces on Craigslist. I would have preferred brass hardware and the wood veneer had a weird texture .. so that wasn't ideal, but at $30 to $40 each, I decided it was still worth it!


Before:






We preferred the desk without a hutch, so we have plans to repurpose that!


For a full tutorial on how to paint campaign furniture and polish hardware, see this post. I still highly recommend the tips shared in that post, but since Sherwin Williams Pro Classic can't be mixed in deep, saturated colors, I used something else for the top coat.

First, what paint NOT to use: Sherwin Williams All Surface Enamel (I LOVE Sherwin Williams Pro Classic - I use it all the time for furniture .. but this is nothing like that) I was warned in the store that since I was going over white primer it would take several coats .. 5 coats later, it still wasn't solid. The paint was translucent looking .. maybe this would work for white over white, or a tinted red primer/red paint, but definitely not white primer/red paint. Also, I didn't like how it went on or how it looked/felt after drying 24 hrs ..


So I did a custom mix of Rustoleum Gloss Sunrise Red and  Rustoleum Gloss Sunburst Yellow (oil based) Maybe 70% red and 30% yellow.. it looks super saturated and bright, but in person it is a little more mellow, I'd describe it as a poppy color.

(Prior to painting, this required A LOT of sanding .. the veneer was textured, so we sanded it till it was basically smooth with the orbital sander) 

This is my first time using an oil based paint on furniture, but after painting our mantel, I had a good idea of how it would go on.

Here's a few things to know about oil based paint prior to using it:

- Oil based paint is a pain to clean up (so brushes will need to be cleaned with mineral spirits or thrown away)

- It is stinky - so painting outside is a must!

- It has a slow drying time - 24 hours between coats, this also allows more time for dust to get stuck in the paint, so a debris free area is best. Also, prior to using it, the paint should cure for at least a week

- It covers SO well, you will most likely only need 2 coats.

- The key to getting a smooth finish is not over brushing (natural bristle brush works best) only go over an area with a few passes and move on, leave the brush strokes, they will self level. Apply a thicker coat to horizontal surfaces and thinner coats on vertical surfaces to prevents drips.

- It is a great way to get a super durable, glossy, lacquer like look!




The gallery wall above was centered around this print from Artfully Walls - love how it picks up the red tones in the desk.


This print is a part of the Artfully Walls and Better Homes and Gardens collaboration (as seen in the November BHG issue)  I was provided the print to share my styling tips in an upcoming digital styling session with 6 designers (on Artfully Walls a little later! I'll share the link when it's up!)


The Dorsey gold leaf diy art is still one of my favorites, tutorial here.


Eucalyptus from Trader Joes, deer head from Target's Christmas collection. Shelves were made by us for the BHG Stylemaker challenge, starburst mirror was on clearance for $8.83 at Home Depot


Chinese Chippendale chair found at a thrift store this summer .. it still needs a cushion, I might paint it .. might not .. Either way, LOVE it!!

I'm looking forward to adding a few more frames and items to the shelves - one of my favorite things about gallery walls is the flexibility to add to them! But for now, I'm loving this bright corner in our TN rental!

Super Glossy Yellow Lamps + TN Living Room Sneak Peek

Did you have a good weekend? I hope so! Today I'm sharing a sneak peek of my Tennessee living room tour for the Blogger Styling Home Tour blog hop (I'm up Wednesday, but to follow from the beginning click here)

Recently, I've been obsessed with two things 1. bright yellow and 2. achieving a super glossy finish. So I decided to try both on a set of lamps recently found at the thrift store for $8 each. 




They had a weird faux brass / pinkish finish.

First a warning .. this was definitely not the easiest shape to achieve a glossy finish, simplicity is best, due to the amount of sanding.


To get started, I sanded it with medium grit synthetic steel wool. Then, I sanded it with a fine grit synthetic steel wool.


Then, I taped off the socket and cord. And placed old paper on the ground and a few extra pieces of wood to lift it off the ground. Make sure the area is dirt and dust free. I blew it off with the spray attachment on our air compressor.


I wiped it off with an old wash cloth (micro fiber would work too).  If you don't have a dust free paint booth, it's best to do a final wipe off where you'll be painting it right before you paint.


Then, I started painting. I used Zinsser Cover Stain since I had that on hand. (I've primarily used this on wood, but figured that it would work on metal too) I think BIN primer would have been a good option as well.

I gave it two light coats, letting it dry in between.


To get a super glossy finish, sanding is a MUST .. a lot of sanding, with small steps between grits using a fine grit to finish (i.e. 60 grit is rough, 600 grit is fine)

This isn't the only way to do it, but a fairly simple method that worked for me (sandpaper gets even finer 3,000 and up)

After the primer, I lightly sanded the entire surface with 320 grit.


This definitely isn't the easiest shape to sand .. something with less facets would have been much faster.


After removing all the primer dust with a cloth, gave it a coat of Liquitex, Cadmium Yellow Light 5. Here's my thoughts on it ..  I loved the wide range of colors, it didn't come out super fast, which helped control the paint and not waste it (I was able to cover both lamps with one can a good bit left over) Also, I wore a respirator .. but what I could smell, smelled like hairspray, so that was nicer than the typical spray paint smell. It didn't come out super smooth .. It sanded ok, but if you're looking for more color options, I'd recommend Montana Gold instead.


I gave it two coats, sanding it with 400 grit in between, once dry. After the last coat of yellow, I sanded it with 600 grit sandpaper.


After removing all the dust, I gave it a few glossy clear coats of Krylon Lacquer. I've used a few clear coats and this is by far my favorite. It doesn't run easily (a common problem with clear coats) and it gives a super glossy finish.

I did a fairly thin coat, constantly moving it in a circular motion, letting it dry a little in between coats (about 15 minutes) It doesn't have to look even on the first coat .. Then I applied more coats until it was evenly glossy. Using a spray paint grip helps give control and even coverage (I have this one) just make sure that the can is secure prior to painting (not all cans fit) ..


My original plan was to wet sand and buff the clear, so it was super glossy, but I was afraid it wouldn't work well since I didn't have a higher grit (around 2,000-3,000) sandpaper. In the end, the lacquer was very glossy, so I don't think it was necessary.

I love the bright saturated color!


They're currently on our Holly & Martin console table behind the sofa - love them paired with the bright coral x benches from Target.


Full reveal of our TN living room on Wednesday!!


p.s. Today I'm at Infarrantly Creative sharing our latest DIY project .. stop by and take a look!
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