then and now

Tuesday I shared a few changes in the living room after cwts, and today I thought I'd share how the bedrooms have changed. I'll be needing to update our home tour page soon, because a lot has changed!

We switched up the charcoal upholstered headboard with a bright coral upholstered headboard. I'm loving the bright pop of color! We also added a grasscloth and nailhead feature wall behind the bed.


To the left of the bed we switched up the draperies and added the mint fabric on the chair. The desk was in the guest room for a few months, so I really need a second "then" shot, but imagine the fabric wrapped table there too (I never really got a good picture).

We decided to move the charcoal headboard into the guest room (we'll be selling the teal headboard). I put the room together with mostly things I already had, and will probably do a little more tweaking, but at least now we can see the bed (this was the dumping ground for cwts) and David's parents who are coming next week, won't have to crawl through to find the bed :) 


























One of our former nightstands is in the guest room across from the bed and next to the closet. The other one is in my closet. I also reorganized my tiny closet, which is packed full!!


 We are still changing a few things and I'll be sure to share pics when I have them :)
 

80s Chandelier to Glass Mirror | How To

Friday I finished my DIY glass pane mirror and I am in love with the finished result!


Like I mentioned on Friday, we decided to hang it in the guest room above the desk (from the master bedroom) and moved the coral dresser next to the closet (I plan to also turn this into my sewing/diy room)

Here's how we did it ... (with a few tweaks of what I wish we would of done to make it faster)



We took apart this 80s chandelier (in EVERY thrift shop) and removed all the metal from the slanted glass panes.

Our chandelier had 16 (7.25” long and 5.75” at the widest point) slanted glass panes - we used 15. The finished mirror was 28.75” in diameter with 1/4" spacing between the panes.

After gathering our supplies:

1/2 sheet of 3/8" plywood (Ace Hardware lets you buy 1/2 a sheet)
Paint
Weldbond glue
Jewelry wire
Melamine edging
15" round mirror
Grout
Rub n' Buff

We laid out the glass panes in a circle on a piece of plywood slightly larger - since our panes wouldn't work without a gap, we gradually adjusted until the spacing was equal (about 1/4" between each)


Once all the panes were equal, we marked all of the corners and outer edges so that we could easily line it back up and for the outer cut.

 
We painted the panes before this step, but I wish I would of done it after, since moving them around removed some of the paint, and touch ups were needed.

After the panes were marked, David cut out the plywood back following our outer pencil marks with the jigsaw and then sanded the edges.




Now onto the pretty stuff! 


We used an airbrush (we have this one), since we wanted to use the same paint that we used on the chandelier - BM Bali - Spray painting would work great too! (prior to painting, make sure to tape off the front to avoid over spray)

Next, our mirror selection ... 

We ended up getting a 15" round 1/8" thick mirror cut at a local glass shop to slightly overlap the glass panes since getting it cut to meet the 15 angles created by the glass panes would be hard to get precise, and very costly!

Instead, David cut 1/8" pieces (any shape will work since it is covered) of lauane with the chop saw (slightly smaller than the panel) to glue to the back of the glass so that the glass panels would fit just over the mirror and be flat, rather than tilted (tip: ask for a scrap piece of 1/8" board, we got ours for a whopping .25 from Ace Hardware)


These were glued on the back of the painted glass panel with Weldbond glue - our paint looked discolored for about 24 hrs until it fully dried, but then evened out perfectly!


I glued the mirror with Weldbond glue to the plywood (using the pencil marks that I created earlier to center it)


Then I laid the panels out, applied Weldbond glue to the back side and allowed to a few hours so that they were firmly in place (tip: place heavy objects on the glass to hold it down while drying, I used a few books).

After it dried, I applied grout (like you would tile), but instead I would recommend putting the frame first to avoid redoing work like I did :)


I used rectangular jewelry wire to build the frame for the inside (it was slightly taller than the glass panels) First I laid out the overall shape by bending in the creases and then applied a super glue to secure it (note: to smooth out the wire as you go use something firm - I used a wood putty knife to straighten it by gently pressing against the pane to get it even. I also used tape after the glue was applied to hold in place until dry)


I would of preferred a similar metal strip for the outside, but since I couldn't find one wide enough (and flexible enough) at a local store, I purchased melamine edging, for the outer edge. Mine was too wide so I cut it to the correct width with a ruler and xacto knife. I glued it with the Weldbond glue, but wood glue would of worked fine too. I also used tape to hold it in place while it dried.

Once the outer edges are dry, its time to grout!


Apply the grout as you would to tile, make sure to fill in all of the crevices!


Once the grout is dry, I taped off the glass and mirror and then applied Rub' n Buff (I used Antique Gold) over the grout and the trim and then wiped away any exces.

After removing the tape, we used D rings and heavy gauge wire on the back to hang it, since the mirror is very heavy we also applied a little Gorilla Glue in the screw holes for added strength and wire rated for 100 lbs (just to be safe) We then used a drywall anchor like this for the wall that could handle the weight (always look for a stud if possible!)

I did all the finishing touches bent over the floor, I wish I would of used a lazy susan turn table on the table (would of made it much easier!)

and that's it! The mirror ended up at 28.75" in diameter. The perfect size for above the desk in the guest room!






Cost Breakdown and Sources:

Chandelier (already purchased for the drum shade chandelier)
Paint BM Bali (already purchased for drum shade chandelier)
Rub n' Buff (already purchased at Michaels)
15" round mirror ------------------- $14 (local glass shop)
Brass Jewelry wire ---------------- $3 (with 50% coupon at Michaels)
Melamine Edging ----------------- $5 (Home Depot)
1/2 sheet 3/8" plywood ----------- $6 (Ace Hardware)
Weldbond glue --------------------- $3 (Micheals)
D Rings ------------------------------$2.50 (Home Depot)
Heavy Gauge wire (already had) 
                                   
Total --------------------------------- $31 

It helped that I already had some of the supplies, but I would say starting from scratch, it could be done for under $50 easily, with supplies left over to make another!

This mirror looks high end for the price (at least I think so :), so be on the hunt for a chandelier with a massive glass shell!

--

Update: After hearing from a few people that the glass panes were difficult to remove from the fixture I wanted to mention that our frame was pretty loose and fairly bendable. I have seen ones that are very tight around the glass, so if you would like to try this, I would definitely recommend looking for one that is looser around the glass panes :)



Creating with the Stars

DIY Glass Mirror!


Today I am saying that I can't believe I asked the associate at Habitat Restore if I could leave the glass shell and just take the chandelier ... because I am in love with my new mirror!

and in case you missed it, first I started with a drum shade chandelier for the guest room.


While David and I were taking apart the glass (yes it was welded in there), he started laying glass in a circle and I said, that could be an amazing mirror! We make a great team, if I do say so myself! 

A few hours and fixed mistakes later, we ended up with this! 



We moved the desk from the master bedroom into the guest room, and the coral dresser next to the closet 



I'll be back Monday to share how I did it! Hope you have a great weekend!

Chandelier Pendant with Drum Shade for Guest Room

Hi! Hope you all had a great labor day weekend! David's brother was here, so we explored the coast and of course there was some DIY too! 


If you follow me on Instagram @sarahmdorseydesigns you might of seen this massive outdoor chandelier a few weeks ago. I spotted in the pile of freshly donated items at Habitat Restore, and after I asked how much, and heard $10 ... I said sold!


This weekend we finally got around to painting and installing it - I was inspired by the fabulous chandelier drum shade fixture at Young House Love!

We decided to install the rope fixture above the first landing on the stairs (more on that later) and the chandelier in the guest bedroom


The shade is 14" from Lamps Plus that I purchased a year or so ago for another project.

After priming, we airbrushed the pendant with BM Bali, a green gray blue (I think Rustoleum Glacier Ice is similar, but I couldn't find it in store)

The height that we wanted, it is completely constructed of parts from the left over chandelier (one advantage of buying a massive fixture, lots of parts!)


And a few with the lights on ...


I love how the light is redirected on the ceiling


It currently has (4) 25 watts bulbs from the rope fixture, but I would like to find a lower wattage since it takes 8 total. So I am off to find those today!

There is about 2.5" from the chandelier to the shade for air circulation!

and one last before and after ...


I also have plans for the glass exterior ... stay tuned to see if my idea works!

If anyone is interested, I will draw a diagram with the parts that we used to get the height, secure the shade, etc. Let me know :)



DIY Folded Rope Dome Pendant Light How To

As I wrote yesterday, after seeing a gorgeous bended dome pendant light in a room by Martha O'Hara Interiors I knew that I wanted to make something similar.


Because this was my first time working with rope and Mod Podge, a lot of trial and error was involved, but it ended up looking close to what I had imagined...

The short version?


1. I gathered my materials - All purpose glue, Mod Podge hard coat, rope, painter's tape, and a beach ball

2. I built a template from extra wood so that all of the bends would be the same and then glued at every point of contact

3. Wrapped painter's tape (sticky side out) around a beach ball and wrapped the folded rope around around so that each row would touch

4. I brushed several coats of Mod Podge hard coat (allowing to dry between coats)

5. Spray painted heirloom white

6. and hung it in the bedroom!

if you are interested in doing this or something similar I would recommend reading the long version too :)


I gathered my supplies - quick dry tacky glue, Mod Podge hardcoat, painter's tape, 100 ft cotton clothes line, and a standard beach ball ... sadly this isn't my first photo of my supplies, after folding 100 ft of synthetic blend clothes line I realized that the glue didn't stick very well and it came apart too easily ... I then purchased quick dry glue and a cotton clothes line, which stayed together much better!


I built a template for the rope out of extra wood by screwing screen mold into a 1x3 so that all of the folds would be the same height - the painter's tape is not in the photo (because this was from my first attempt) but I ran it (sticky side up) along the bottom to attach the rope to. I would fold a 6' section and once completely dry would move the tape and rope so I could work on the next section. The tape is important because otherwise the rope glues itself to the wood ...

Also, I folded the section in the center smaller so that it will bend easily in that tight space.


Once all of the rope was folded and dry, I carefully removed the painter's tape from the back of the folded rope.

I then circled it around the beach ball wrapped in painter's tape (sticky side out) until about the center of the beach ball (took all of the 100 ft. of rope)


I applied the Mod Podge (I didn't have enough of the hard coat, so I used regular Mod Podge in the middle coats) and allowed to dry between coats - the difficult part is not getting it too heavy otherwise it will fill some of the holes (I had to remove some once dry with an xacto knife)

I used about 4 coats on the interior and exterior and allowed it to dry between coats


I primed and then sprayed it with Rustoleum's Heirloom White to give it and even finish (the cotton rope was a little dull)

My original plan was to use the existing fixture in the guest room, but since the shade could be easily seen through - it needed to be painted and since it's a rental, that wouldn't work (but maybe for you if you own?) ... so I purchased this used fixture for $8 and removed the shade, I also purchased a longer threaded center rod to accommodate the height of the new shade (It was 12" and we cut down to the correct height)


I lightly sanded the metal with steel wool and primed and painted Heirloom White

After turning the power off, we removed the old fixture and installed the new one ... 



Taking photos while holding the fixture wasn't easy ... a few came out ok :)

We put in 25 Watt round clear bulbs and secured the shade to the center piece with the painted existing hardware



While the shade is firm ... it isn't firm enough to support it's own weight pulling on bottom center, so it was photographed with some wire to prevent it from sagging. I am hoping that the Mod Podge will harden over time (it is now off of the fixture), but if not, I will use resin, epoxy or something else to stiffen it.  Anyone stiffened rope with success?

** Update: It took a few months, but the Mod Podge did firm up a lot! It is currently installed with cup hook below a recessed light, but I think that it would be strong enough to support itself as shown in these photos **


I am still deciding whether to put it in the guest bedroom



I like it here, but it looks a little small ...  maybe something that has a little more drop? 

or at the first landing above the front door


There is currently a recessed light here, so since we can't take it out ... the shade would act as a diffuser - I like the way it redirects the light, the only problem is finding a good way to attach it to the ceiling/recessed light

decisions, decisions :)

Here is the cost and source breakdown:

Cotton rope (100 ft)       $3.47 (wal-mart in the hardware section)
Mod Podge hard coast ~$4.20 (with coupon at Michaels) 
Beach Ball                         .97 (wal-mart)
Painter's tape (already had)
Spray paint (already had)
Fixture                           $8 (Habitat Restore)
Fast Dry Tacky Glue     $2 (local craft store Beverly's)

                             Total $18.64

Time breakdown ... a lot ... but most of that was trial and error and waiting for glue to dry!

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